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MADE TO MEASURE Custom Clothier & Shirtmaker, Since 1978
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Over 350
Shirt Fabrics
All 100% Egyptian, Pima,
and Sea Island Cotton Fabrics in extra long staple 2 ply 80's, 100's, 120's, 140's, and 160's.
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-- Gallery photos in detail.
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Shirt Fabric Terms & Definitions. Learn about the different shirt fabrics.
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Tips to help you get a perfect fit. Links to more related topics.
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View our custom size and style form. You get complete custom sizing and styling in an "easy for you" format.
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Easy to follow measuring guide to help you get a perfect fit.
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Compare the differences of Custom Shirts vs. Ready Made Shirts. Decide for yourself.
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Have you had custom shirts made before? Or do you have you have a shirt that fits just right?
Send us your shirt and we'll duplicate the fit or style for you!
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Update your customer file & measurements.
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In St. Louis
view our entire clothing line of over 5000 men’s custom Suit, Sport Coat and Trouser fabrics and over 500 Custom Shirt fabrics.
Call for an appointment,
office or home. 636-394-1754
( St. Louis Metropolitan Area only )
We'll bring our complete fabric line and our full custom tailoring services to you.
"Let us show you why Made To Measure ~ Makes the difference!"
For more information:
Phone (636) 394-1754
Fax (636) 527-0877
Email us at: mail@madetomeasureclothiers.com
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Buy 5 and get a
6th Shirt Free!
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Fabric Knowledge
The Importance Of Staple Length
The length of the natural fiber is important in determining the quality of the cotton. The greater the length of the natural cotton fiber, the smoother and more luxurious the fabric feels.
Egyptian, Sea Island and Pima are ELS (extra-long staple) cottons that range from 1 3/8 inches to 2 1/2 inches.
Egyptian and Sea Island cottons are the longest and are considered the best. Sea Island cotton which was once only grown in the West Indies and how it got its name, now is just a generic name used for cotton that is grown from the barbadense seed.
Given the fact that the length of the fiber is most important, an Egyptian cotton extra-long staple 60s cotton shirt will feel better than a Sea Island long-staple 80s cotton shirt.
Thread Count From 50s to 200s
You will see many dress shirt fabrics described numerically as 60's, 80's, 100's, 120s, 140s, 160s, 180s and even 200s. This number refers to the thickness of the thread. The higher the number is, the finer the thread is, and in turn the softer and more luxurious the fabric. A 200s yarn is the finest, finer than a human hair and much more difficult to weave.
The number is measured using the English count method, which measures the number of hanks (840 yards) in a pound of cotton. The higher the number, the finer the cotton. For example: 150 means that a pound of the thread would measure 126,000 yards (150 x 840).
2ply verses 1ply
Two-ply yarn is made by twisting two cotton strands together. Yarn that is simply a single strand of cotton is referred to as one-ply or single. Two-ply is better as it is smoother, stronger, and more uniform than single-ply.
Singles will be marked with the letter s, such as 100s. A two-ply yarn will be designated with a 2 after the yarn size. Example: 100s/2 means that the yarn has been made by twisting two 100s cotton strands together.
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Fabric Terms & Definitions
Broadcloth and Poplin
Plain weave and in most cotton broadcloths made with a very fine crosswise rib weave.
Characteristics: Originally indicated a cloth woven on a wide loom. Very closely woven and in cotton, made from either carded or combed yarns. The filling is heavier and has less twist. It is finer than poplin when made with a crosswise rib and it is lustrous and soft with a good texture. Thread count ranges from high quality 80 x 60 up to 144 x 6 count. Has a smooth finish. May be bleached, dyed, or printed; also is often mercerized. Wears very well. Finest quality made from Egyptian or combed Pima cotton - also Sea Island.
Uses: Shirts, dresses, particularly the tailored type in plain colors, blouses, summer wear of all kinds.
Chambray
Plain weave or dobby designs on a plain-weave ground.
Characteristics: Made with a dyed warp and a white or unbleached filling. Both carded and combed yarns used. Has a white selvedge. Some woven with alternating white and colored warp. "Faded" look. Has very soft coloring. Some made with stripes, checks or embroidered. Smooth, strong, closely woven, soft and has a slight lustre. Wears very well, easy to sew, and launders well. Originated in Cobrai, France, where it was first made for sunbonnets.
Dobby
Dobby is a type of loom on which small geometric figures can be woven in or as a regular pattern.
This type of weaving is expensive as that the dobby loom differs from a plain loom in its complexity and intricacy. Originally this type of loom needed a "dobby boy" who sat on the top of the loom and drew up warp threads to form a pattern. Now the weaving is done entirely by machine.
End on End
A plain weave fabric woven from two different colored yarns (usually a colored warp and a white filling). One end color and the other end white or variation of color to give that end-on-end effect.
Gingham
Plain-Word derived from Italy "Ging-gang" meaning "striped".
Characteristics: Medium or fine yarns of varying quality are used to obtain the checks, plaids, stripes, and plain effects. The cloth is yarn dyed or printed. The warp and the filling are usually balanced and if checks of two colors, usually same sequence in both the warp and the filling. It is strong, substantial, and serviceable.
Gingham Check
Fabric with dyed yarns introduced at given intervals, both vertically and horizontally, to achieve block or check effects.
Herringbone
A broken twill weave that changes direction giving a zigzag effect. Same as a Chevron weave. Silky and smooth, the Herringbone pattern woven into this fabric gives a shirt texture and depth.
Jacquard also referred to as White on White or Tone on Tone
Intricate method of weaving in which a head motion at the top of the loom holds and operates a set of punch cards, according to the motif desired. The perforations in the cards, in connection with the rods and cords, regulate the raising of the stationary warp thread mechanisms, creating simple or elaborate designs.
Designs of stripes, checks, geometric patterns and more.
Oxford
A classic fabric with a little more texture than pinpoint. Perfect for both dress and casual shirts. Usually made from a color yarn and white filling.
Pinpoint Oxford
Features the same weaving as the Oxford but very tightly woven a very high thread count per inch, making the fabric very soft, a cross between poplin and oxford.
Pique
Lengthwise rib, English crosswise rib or cord weave.
Characteristics: Originally was a crosswise rib but now mostly a lenghtwise rib and the same as bedford cord. Ribs are often filled to give a more pronounced wale (cord weave). Comes in medium to heavy weights. It is generally made of combed face yarns and carded stuffer yarns. It is durable and launders well. Also comes in different patterns besides wales. The small figured motifs are called colque. Some of the patterns are birdseye (small diamond), waffle (small squares), honeycomb (like the design on honeycomb shape).
Poplin
Crosswise rib. The filling is cylindrical. Two or three times as many warp as weft per inch.
Characteristics: Has a more pronounced filling effect than broadcloth. It is mercerized and has quite a high luster. It may be bleached, or dyed (usually vat dyes are used) or printed. Heavy poplin is gien a water-repellent finish for outdoor use. Originally made with silk warp and a heavier wool filling. Some also mildew-proof, fire-retardant, and some given a suede finish. American cotton broadcloth shirting is known as poplin in Great Britain.
Uses: Sportswear of all kinds, shirts, boy's suits, uniforms, draperies, blouses, dresses.
Twill
A weave characterized by a diagonal rib or twill line generally running upward left to right. This diagonal weave creates a nice soft hand to the fabric and the twill weave itself is
densely woven, not see through, and exceptional for long wear.
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